Historically, tea's origins date back to around 2700 BC. It is thought to have first been discovered in the mountainous areas of China's far western Sichuan and Yunnan provinces. It was originally taken as a detoxifying medicine though it grew to great social prominence during the Tang (620-907 AD) and Sung (960-1279 AD) Dynasties. In addition to tea's attributed health benefits, the high level of "tea culture" was appealing to people outside of China as well. Since the fifth century AD, tea has been exported by land and sea throughout Asia and reached Europe in 1610. It was Dutch traders that first brought tea to Europe but the British who greatly developed it, transplanting it to India in the early 1800's.

World-wide, Tea is consumed more than any other liquid except water. People of all ages have historically enjoyed the infusion from the Camellia Sinensis tree as a beverage as well as for its medicinal properties. Research has shown that tea does indeed have many health affecting qualities; and numerous publications extolling the benefits of tea have contributed to the tremendous growth in its consumption.  Well known as a source for various nutrients and antioxidants, tea has gained even more popularity in modern times with claims of it's usefulness in fighting heart disease, cancer, obesity, tooth decay, nausea, and all manner of digestive disorders. 

All true teas have caffeine. The amount of caffeine that is in your cup can vary depending on a few factors. Firstly, small particle and broken leaves will release their caffeine much more quickly than whole leaf teas. Secondly, the longer you steep the leaves, the more caffeine will be released. Thirdly, the hotter the water used to infuse the leaves, the faster the caffeine is released. These factors, combined with the actual amount of leaf used, can all effect the final outcome. Generally speaking the lesser the degree of oxidation, the lower the initial amount of caffeine that will be released. Green teas, for example Pi Lo Chun or Dragon Well, are typically considered to contain the least. Next are White and Yellow teas such as Silver Needle. Lightly oxidized oolongs like Jade or Green Oolong have less than more heavily oxidized ones like Xiao Hong Pao or Ti Kuan Yin. Black and compressed teas, like Keemun or the black tea bricks, are thought to have the most due to their greater oxidation.  Base on 8 fluid oz of water and 3 grams of dry leaf, green teas can give off between 5 - 25 mg, whites and yellows from 15-35mg; oolongs between 25 - 75mg; and blacks from 50 - 100mg. By comparison, a typical 8 oz cup of drip coffee can contain 150mg.

There are three basic categories of tea which differ according to the manner in which they are produced. Green, Oolong and Black teas each have their respective subcategories such as white, yellow, light or heavily oxidized, or compressed. The diverse environmental conditions in which the plants are grown, the age and number of leaves used, and the final appearance of the leaves also contribute to creating the enormous variety of products on the market.  Most of the best teas are still processed entirely by hand.  

The steps in processing can be different for different teas and each area has it's own unique style.  In general the leaves are picked and then carried back to the factory.  They are spread out on cool, shaded floors or drying trays to wilt from a few minutes to several hours. Next the leaves undergo a sequence of heating steps either in a large wok (pan frying) or in a hot air tumbling machine.  The heat removes some of the moisture and also stops or slows the oxidation process by destroying the volatile enzymes.  While the leaves are heated, they are also being rolled, by hand or machine. This step serves to break down the cell structure and begin to give a shape to the leaves. For the famous Dragon Well green tea from China it takes about 4.5 lbs. of fresh leaves to produce 1 lb of finished tea and about 45 minutes from start to finish.

Green teas are dried completely and handled gently.  They can be curled (ex. Pi Lo Chun) or twisted - called Mei or Eyebrow teas (ex. Zhen Mei) or can be rolled into pellets - called Zhu or Pearl teas (ex. Gunpowder).  The leaves can also be pressed flat (ex. Dragon Well) or left in a very natural crude shape.  For black teas, the heating steps are alternated with resting steps.  Controlling the heat and degree of oxidation are crucial in determining the tea's flavor.  Oolong teas first undergo a step wherein the fresh leaves are gently tossed around on a rattan tray.  The goal is to gently bruise the outer edge of the leaf.  The outer edge therefore oxidizes faster than the inside and in effect, the leaf is both green and black tea at the same time.  To finish, as with black teas, the leaves are baked to remove any remaining moisture. Teas are usually graded and sorted for consistency of leaf size, whole leaves being the most prized.  Teas are commonly referred to as fermented (black tea) and non-fermented (green tea) though this term is technically incorrect.  There is no actual fermentation or distilling of the leaves.  The correct term is oxidation.

For fine green teas, the earlier in the year the leaves are picked, the better. In China, those picked before the Spring Festival of Qing Ming are the most tender. Quite prized and often rare these teas are usually lighter in taste and aroma, though smoother and more elegant. Picked completely by hand, it is no small feat to gather all the young buds and leaves in the few short days available. Bad weather can ruin the entire year's crop. In 2004, for Pi Lo Chun green tea from Suzhou, China, the first day of picking was April 14th and the last was the 21st. It took 60,000 buds to make just one kilo of finish tea. It took 7 lbs of fresh leaves to make 1lb of finished tea.

For some teas there can be several pickings. When a new bud comes out or "flushes" it is picked and processed. Spring is the First Flush but there may also be Summer, Autumn and even Winter pickings. A second flush tea would refer to leaves that were from the second harvesting of the tea bushes. After the leaves are finished they are sorted for uniformity. Whole leaves, large then smaller pieces are separated. Leaves are graded according to the season they were picked, flush and size. In most places outside the orient, a letter system is used to define the leaves finished grade. For example, a fine Darjeeling may have the grade SFTGFOP which stands for Special Fancy Tippy Golden Flowery Orange Pekoe. By the way, there is no orange flavor in Orange Pekoe. It currently refers only to a small particle of tea leaf. BOP stands for Broken Orange Pekoe. Here the leaves are intentionally broken. These grades as well as Fannings or Dust quickly produce a very strong infusion and so are most suitable for teabags.

For the first 2000 years of its history the tea leaf was consumed more for its medicinal qualities than as an enjoyable beverage.  Originally, the raw leaves were boiled and the liquid taken to aid in all manner of maladies.  As it grew in reputation the method of drying the leaves was discovered.  This allowed tea to be transported far from the growing areas without spoiling.  The process also changed the taste from a rather bitter potion into a pleasing luxury.  As early as around 420 AD there was record of its appreciation as a fine drink. "Fragrant tea ...in the nine districts."  

First called "tu" in early references, the term "cha" has been used since around 700 AD.  Other tea trading regions in China had their own local dialect for the leaf.  Though the Northern Chinese traders called it "cha," as subsequently did their West Asian and Middle Eastern customers, in Amoy, present day Xiamen, tea was called "de,"  the source of the European name.

Tea appreciation waxed and waned over the next few centuries but experienced a renaissance during the Tang (620-907 AD) and Sung (960-1279 AD) dynasties.  In the Tang, the first real compilation of tea information was by Lu Yu in 780 AD, regarded as the "Tea Classic."  The adopted son of a Buddhist monk and tea connoisseur, it was said that Lu Yu could discern if even a few drops of lower quality water was used in the preparing of his tea.

Around 1618 tea use had spread to Russia, being given as a gift to the Czar.  And when the Dutch began introducing it in Europe around the turn of the 1600's, the world was on its way to making tea its favorite beverage.  Interestingly, the tea of the time was most likely either green tea or compressed tea, the black tea process not having been invented until after 1500. 

The habits of tea's consumption have also evolved over the ages. By the 5th century A.D. the fresh leaves were no longer in wide use. Rather, they were dried and compressed into cakes. These cakes were more convenient and cost effective to transport and the tea flavor remained in relative tact over time, compared to the fresh leaves, which quickly spoiled. Pieces of the cakes were broken off, crushed into a powder and then boiled in water. In the Tang Dynasty (618-907 A.D.) the fresh leaves were steamed before they were dried, ground into a powder and compresses into bricks. Again,  a piece was broken off. This time the chunk was roasted before it was crushed and finally boiled. In that time tea was drunk from shallow bowls, often of light colored glaze.

In the Song Dynasty (960-1279 A.D.) processing techniques had improved and production, quality and variety had improved. The dry leaves were ground into the powder and then placed into the bowl. Boiling water was added and the mixture was then whipped into a frothy soup. Additives like onion, salt and orange peel were sometimes included. Great advancements had also been made in ceramics. To contrast with the light colored brew, dark glazes were preferred. One in particular resembled the speckled appearance of a rabbit's fur. This was also the time of great cultural exchange with Japan. Religion, language, craftsmanship and trade made there way to the across the straits. Tea culture was also transported, largely by Buddhist monks who had studied in China's temples. It is from this time that the Japanese tea ceremony - the Cha No You derives. Over time, the procedure for tea preparation and consumption were refined, formalized and elevated to a ritual.

It wasn't until the Ming Dynasty (1368-1644 A.D.) that the use of loose tea became wide spread. Though bowls were still in use, the potters in Yixing began creating the first vessels used for brewing tea. Adapted from wine ewers, these clay vessels were more suited to preparing loose tea. Export of tea and tea wares to Europe had begun and in addition to clay ware, fine porcelains from Jingdezhen were soon included in shipments. The teapot remained in use along with its proscribed steps for brewing, called gong fu. The favorite tea drinking vessel of the Qing court (1644-1912 A.D.) was the gaiwan or covered bowl. Loose tea was simply placed in the handleless deep bowls and hot water added. The lid served to keep the heat and aroma in as well as hold the leaves back when sipping.

There are several legends about the discovery of tea and there are many more that relate specific teas, personalities, and tea in general. The most ancient account of tea’s use is the story of Shen Nung. In the third millennium BC, 2750 BC to be exact, Emperor Shen Nung, part man part god, roamed China compiling the first collection of herbs and their medicinal effects. When he would happen upon a new plant, he would make an infusion of its leaves, roots, berries or other parts, drink it, and then document the resulting effects. It is said that while he was in Southwestern China, wandering in present day Sichuan and Yunnan provinces, he ingested an herb that caused him to feel faint and uncomfortable in his stomach. Sitting back to rest on a tree trunk, he noticed a leaf, which he had never seen before, fall into his pot of boiling water. Risking further illness, his curiosity led him to drink the resulting brew. Shortly thereafter, he noticed his head clearing and that the pains in his abdomen had vanished. He added the leaf to his collection of herbs with the description that it has detoxifying effects as well as its ability to sharpen the awareness.

 Brewing Tips

There are no hard and fast rules for brewing tea because there are so many taste preferences and drinking habits. Also, each tea has its own characteristics. The bottom line is, make it the way you like it. In general, however, if you keep in mind the following suggestions, you’ll be making tea like a master in no time. 

1 Use the proper amount of leaf. About 1 level teaspoon for broken leaf grades (you may want to get a caddy spoon) for an 8 oz. cup.

2 Use the appropriate water temperature for the tea you are using. For Dark Oolongs, Blacks, Compressed, Flavored Blacks, and Tisanes use fresh cold water brought to a rolling boil. For Greens, Whites, Yellows, Green Oolongs and Flavored Greens bring the kettle to about 185° F. If you're sharp, you can hear the water get quiet before it boils. More delicate teas will perform their best with slightly cooler water.

3 Steep for the appropriate brew time for the tea you are using. Remember, some teas can be brewed several times and brew time changes for each brewing. For the first brew: 2-3 min. for Greens, Whites, Yellows and Compressed; 30-90 sec. for good Oolongs though some like 3-5 minutes; 3-4 min. for Blacks and Flavoreds; 5-8 min. for Tisanes.

4 Remove the leaves from the tea liquor when finished brewing. For stronger tea use more leaf.

5 For iced tea, use double the amount of leaf but use the same brew time. Pouring it warm over ice dilutes it perfectly.

In professional tea tastings, called "cuppings", special equipment is used and the brewing techniques differ from those used when serving tea.  Standards can vary but the most important thing is to be consistent. One typical method used across China is to use 3 grams of leaf, infused in boiling water, for 5 minutes. Though the liquor is often very strong and even quite bitter, any flaws in manufacture become more  obvious.

There are exceptions but in general, the lesser the amount of oxidation, more floral aroma notes are noticeable. The darker or more oxidized the leaves, the more fruity their aroma. This is especially important in evaluating oolong teas.

Tea Tasting Log Form

Copyright, 2006 The Tea House